Types of Tree Felling Cuts: Face Cut, Back Cut, and Bore Cut

Tree felling is a controlled process, not an act of cutting until the tree falls in an unpredictable direction. The three standard felling cuts, the face cut (open-face notch), the back cut, and the bore cut, work together to create a hinge of uncut wood that steers the tree’s fall along a predetermined path. Understanding each cut’s purpose and geometry is the foundation of safe, controlled felling.

The Hinge Concept

The hinge is a strip of uncut wood connecting the stump to the falling tree on the side toward which you want the tree to fall. As the tree tips, it pivots on this hinge. The hinge controls fall direction and, if correctly sized, slows the initial fall and prevents the butt of the tree from kicking backward toward the operator.

A correctly sized hinge is approximately 10 percent of the tree’s diameter in width on each side of the fall direction. A tree 20 inches in diameter should have a hinge approximately 2 inches wide on each side. Too thin a hinge breaks before controlling the fall; too thick a hinge prevents the tree from falling completely.

Cut 1: The Face Cut (Open-Face Notch)

The face cut is made on the side of the tree facing the intended fall direction. It creates an opening that defines where the hinge is, guides the fall, and prevents the stump from splitting when the tree tips.

Geometry: Two cuts create a notch. The top cut angles downward into the tree at 60 to 70 degrees from horizontal. The bottom cut is horizontal or angled slightly upward. The two cuts meet inside the tree. The depth of the notch should be 20 to 25 percent of the tree’s diameter.

The opening of the notch must face precisely the direction you want the tree to fall. Misaligning the face cut misaligns the hinge and the fall direction.

Cut 2: The Back Cut

The back cut is made from the opposite side of the tree, above the bottom of the face cut. It severs the remaining wood between the face cut and the hinge, allowing the tree to tip.

Geometry: The back cut runs horizontally or very slightly above horizontal, parallel to the face cut bottom, and approximately 1 to 2 inches above the bottom of the face cut. This elevation creates the hinge below the back cut. The back cut stops when the hinge wood of the intended width remains.

As the back cut approaches the hinge, the tree begins to move. This is the moment when the operator must step back on the pre-planned retreat path while keeping eyes on the tree crown.

Cut 3: The Bore Cut

The bore cut is an advanced technique that drives the bar tip into the trunk from the side, creating a cut that runs parallel to the grain and leaves the hinge intact on the front face while cutting the back simultaneously. It is used for trees leaning against the intended fall direction and for trees with spring tension that would pinch the bar during a conventional back cut.

Technique: The bore cut enters the trunk from the side at mid-height, using the lower part of the bar nose to plunge into the wood. This requires confident technique at the nose of the bar, which is the kickback zone. Attempting a bore cut without adequate experience and a saw equipped with a correctly functioning chain brake creates serious kickback risk.

For homeowners new to felling, the conventional face cut and back cut sequence handles the vast majority of straight felling tasks safely. The bore cut is a skill to develop progressively.

Establishing a Retreat Path

Before any cut begins, identify and clear a retreat path that runs at a 45-degree angle away from the back of the tree on the non-hinge side. When the tree begins to move, step back along this path while watching the crown. Do not stand directly behind the tree: the butt can kick backward over the stump as the tree falls if the hinge breaks unexpectedly.

For safe chainsaw operation setup including PPE requirements before any felling begins, the chainsaw safety guide covers all pre-cut procedures.