How to Install Patio Edging

Installing patio edging correctly requires attention to three things: setting it at the right height, anchoring it securely enough to resist lateral pressure, and achieving a consistent line around the full perimeter of the patio. Done right, it is a straightforward process that takes an afternoon for most patio sizes. Done poorly, loose or incorrectly-positioned edging is one of the most disruptive problems to fix after a patio is complete.

Page Contents

When to Install Edging in the Build Sequence

Patio edging is installed after excavation and base preparation are complete, but before weed membrane and surface material are laid. This sequence is important: edging set against the compacted sub-base surface and backfilled on the outside provides far stronger lateral restraint than edging pushed in alongside an already-completed surface.

If you have not yet completed base preparation, our base and ground preparation hub covers that stage in full before you proceed here.

Setting the Height

The correct top-of-edging height depends on the surface material being contained.

For a gravel patio, the top of the edging should sit 0.5 to 1 inch above the finished gravel level. This slight upstand prevents surface gravel from washing or kicking over the edging boundary during use.

For a paver or flagstone patio, the top of the edging should sit level with or very slightly below the finished paver surface, flush or just under flush. Edging that protrudes above the paver surface creates a trip hazard and an interruption to the visual finish.

Set a string line at the target top-edge height along each section of the patio boundary. This string line guides the edging height throughout the installation.

Installing Flexible Metal Edging (Steel or Aluminum)

Flexible metal edging is installed in a continuous strip along the patio boundary, bent to the required shape as it is laid.

Cut a clean, vertical-sided slot at the patio boundary using a flat spade or border spade. The slot should be wide enough to accommodate the edging thickness and deep enough so that the top of the edging aligns with the string line height when placed in the slot.

For curves, bend the edging gradually by hand as you place it into the slot. Work slowly around the curve rather than trying to pre-bend the entire radius. Metal edging bends smoothly to gentle curves and most medium-radius curves without any additional tools. For very tight curves (radius under 12 inches), slightly score the back face of the edging at close intervals using tin snips to allow it to curve more sharply.

Drive anchor stakes through the stake holes using a rubber mallet or hammer. Space stakes every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs and every 6 to 8 inches on curves, where the lateral forces from the curved edging require more frequent anchoring.

When connecting two sections of edging, use the manufacturer-supplied connector sleeve and overlap the sections by at least 6 inches. Align the overlap section carefully so the transition is continuous and straight before driving stakes through the overlap zone.

Installing Timber Edging

Timber edging boards are installed using a series of timber or metal stakes driven on the outside face of the board. Use a level to verify the board is set at the correct height and that the top face follows the required drainage gradient.

Secure the board to the stakes using galvanized screws or nails, galvanized fasteners are essential in a ground-contact application to prevent rust staining. Pre-drill pilot holes in pressure-treated timber before screwing to prevent splitting.

For corners, miter cut the edging boards at 45 degrees for a clean joint, or use a corner stake post to butt the two boards against. For curves with timber, make a series of closely spaced saw cuts (kerf cuts) through approximately two-thirds of the board depth on the inside face, this allows the board to flex smoothly around the curve without breaking.

Anchoring Edging on Slopes

Edging on a sloped patio boundary requires additional care to prevent the edging from pulling free as the soil downhill of the edging settles or erodes. Use stakes at the tightest specified spacing on any sloped run, and add a concrete collar (a small pour of concrete around the stake base) on sections where the slope is steeper than 1-in-4. The concrete collar sets the stake in place even if the surrounding soil moves.

Backfilling

Once the edging is staked and the line is verified, backfill soil against the outside face of the edging and tamp it firmly with a hand tamper or the back of a spade. This backfill provides the lateral structural support that keeps the edging upright under the sustained outward pressure of the surface material. Edging without firm backfill will bow outward over time regardless of how well the stakes are driven.

Trim any grass or turf growing against the outer face of the edging with a half-moon edger to create a clean finish at the patio perimeter.