How to Propagate Calathea by Division

Calatheas and marantas cannot be propagated from stem cuttings in the way that vining plants like pothos or philodendron can. They do not produce the kind of stem nodes that generate new roots in water. Instead, they propagate by division: separating the clumping rhizome into sections, each of which grows into an independent plant. Division is most successful when done in spring at the start of the growing season and is most conveniently combined with repotting, since the root ball is already being disturbed.

What You Need

A healthy calathea that has grown large enough to divide, meaning it has multiple distinct stem clusters emerging from the root ball. A clean, sharp knife if the root sections are tightly bound. Fresh potting mix: a moisture-retentive blend of coir, perlite, and a small amount of potting compost. Pots only slightly larger than each divided section. A clean surface to work on.

Step 1: Choose the Right Time

Spring is the best time to divide, when temperatures are rising and the plant is entering its active growing period. A plant divided in spring recovers quickly and produces new growth within a few weeks. Dividing in autumn or winter is possible but recovery is slower, as the plant is not actively growing, and the divided sections sit in their pots through the cold season without establishing before spring.

Step 2: Remove from the Pot

Water the plant 24 hours before dividing. A well-hydrated root system is less prone to damage during handling. Tip the pot on its side and gently slide the root ball out. If it is stuck, run a thin knife or skewer around the inside of the pot wall to release it. Lay the root ball on a clean surface and remove loose potting mix by hand.

Step 3: Identify Division Points

Calatheas produce a spreading rhizome with fibrous roots and multiple growing points from which stems emerge. Look at the base of the stem cluster for natural separation points where distinct groups of stems emerge from separate rhizome sections. A plant with six or eight stems can typically be divided into two sections of three or four stems each. Avoid dividing into sections with fewer than two stems: small divisions are slow to establish and more vulnerable to setbacks.

Step 4: Separate the Root Sections

At natural separation points, gently tease the root sections apart by hand. The fibrous roots of calatheas tangle together over time, and this step requires patience. Work slowly from the outside of the root ball inward, freeing individual root sections before attempting to pull the rhizome sections apart. Where the rhizome is too dense to separate by hand, use a clean, sharp knife to cut through cleanly. Wipe the blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to avoid transferring pathogens between sections.

Step 5: Pot Each Division

Select a pot only slightly larger than the root ball of each division. A pot that is too large holds excess moisture and slows establishment. Fill the base with a small amount of fresh potting mix, position the division so the growing points sit just below the pot rim, then fill around the roots with more mix and firm gently. Water lightly.

A moisture-retentive but free-draining mix suits calatheas well: a blend of coir, perlite, and potting compost in roughly equal parts provides the right balance. For a broader view of the mix choices available, the houseplant care fundamentals hub covers substrate selection in depth.

Step 6: Aftercare

Place newly divided plants in bright indirect light and as much humidity as you can provide for the first three to four weeks. Some wilting in the first few days is normal and reflects the root system adjusting to its reduced size relative to the foliage above. Keep the mix consistently moist, not waterlogged, and avoid fertilizing for the first four to six weeks to prevent stressing undeveloped roots. Once new leaves begin to unfurl, establishment is successful and normal care can resume.

For the specific care requirements of the established plant, the relevant species guide in the calatheas and marantas hub covers light, water, humidity, and fertilizing for each variety. For managing brown tips on newly established divisions, the brown tips and crispy edges guide covers the most likely causes in the post-division period.